speaker buzz when cranked

When I run my Dyno through my 62 bassman and V30s at 3 ti 4, with the Dyno at 3 oclk or more, I get a buzz/break up, when i dig in, almost like a blown speaker. But the speakers dont rub when i flex the cone in by hand. Is there a condition with my amp that could be doing this. I dont notice it with my Marshall head cranked. what gives?

that sounds like a phase inverter tube/driver tube (the one just before the power tubes).

also..preamp tubes are good for about 1yr, power tubes 2yrs.. if your tubes are older than this.. its time

Dang, amp was serviced in late March. The tech used JJs 83cs. I can
swap one from the other side to check, yes?
Also, he installed Winged C power tubes. He didnt want to do the small bottle thing with the Ruby pre. Said lets get it working as it should first. What you think about the tube select?
He said the stock circuit caps where all within their % except one and changed it.
This amp I purchased in 2000 and it had spraug caps in the can at that time.
This non tonal distortion is killing me! I hear it more through the V30s than my G65s.
The speakers are the older uk speakers not new. If it is the speakers how do I know. I see OC speaker recones for 75$
And get this just realized when Bassman is @ 3 ti 4 and i turn the Dynos level knob to 0 or all way left it hisses big time!
2oclock sounds best, pass that things are too dirty to use. The wrong dirty, like fizzle.
Lastly, when amp volume is 0 and Dyno is dimed i get a signal to the speakers. It sounds like the same fizz but at a low volume. Will the preamp signal push through the amp even when amp volume is at zero?
Why cant everything be easy.
Know yer a bizzy but any insight?
Thanks Tavo

OK, swaped tubes..... same deal. swaped to diff speakers.... same. crank amp w/out Dyno woop there it is Fizz.
Go to be the head. Crank Marshall head mast 10 pre 1, Dyno dimed slight fizz at heavy dig.
Bassman gots ghosts! Fukuk I just dropped 250.

Is the 6g6b a better distorter than a 6g6a

and I fade back into my darkness..............

slickfaster wrote:

OK, swaped tubes..... same deal. swaped to diff speakers.... same. crank amp w/out Dyno woop there it is Fizz.
Go to be the head. Crank Marshall head mast 10 pre 1, Dyno dimed slight fizz at heavy dig.
Bassman gots ghosts! Fukuk I just dropped 250.

Is the 6g6b a better distorter than a 6g6a

and I fade back into my darkness..............

got to ask.. in your bassman do you have NOS 6L6WGBs or tungsol reissue 5881 in the pwr section?
This amp was mean for small bottle power tubes and one of the reasons setzer's amp gets that sweet
upper mids clip has much to do with using these particular spec tubes.. the low end stays tight and the high
mids clip nicely.

Also.. if your amp has not had the electrolytic filter caps replaced in the last 15yrs, I wouldnt wast another
second fooling with speakers or tubes.. the amp cannot operate properly without a cap change. Filter caps have a life expectancy of 15yrs.. so if the amp was built in the 60s and its 2011.. man oh man its TIME

Winged C , Should I put those in my Marshall and get the smalll bottles? also JJ 83 cs pre amp

slickfaster wrote:

Winged C , Should I put those in my Marshall and get the smalll bottles? also JJ 83 cs pre amp

good LORD!! those big ass winged C are monsters. yes you want some small bottle Tungsol 5881's and try to use Ruby 12AX7-C5 preamp tubes for V-1,V-2, and V-3. The JJ or a tungsol 12ax7a is perfect for the phase inverter/driver tube.

YA? LMAO!!
ok Im ordering tomorrow,
Thanks for the direction.

slickfaster wrote:

YA? LMAO!!
ok Im ordering tomorrow,
Thanks for the direction.

I'm here for ya.

How do the JJ ECC83s compare? I got 4 new ones in the bassman now. Is The Tube Store a good site, I need to order the 5881s. any better?

slickfaster wrote:

How do the JJ ECC83s compare? I got 4 new ones in the bassman now. Is The Tube Store a good site, I need to order the 5881s. any better?

JJ ECC83s are good sounding but I've had them go bad consistently and quit using them only to find this to
be the case with many builders. I never really liked them in the blonde bassman because they are too bass heavy
even though the mids and treble are nice to my ears.
I guess some could say that the Ruby 12ax7-c5s can be unreliable to but thats why I get the hG+ versions that have been tested for the highest quality. These ruby's ARE the sh$t for the normal channel of a bassman blonde as they
have a bit more gain on tap and while tight in the lows they have an accent in the mids that push on the preamp
of the blondes normal channel.

This all filtered through "what Brian has in tone, I want"... Otherwise I would say tungsol 12ax7's ALL THE WAY. Reliable and full sonic spectrum. I use these as the reverb driver in my blondeshells as the ruby's kept going microphonic being used for that function.
Got to remember in the blonde 6G6-B the normal channel uses 1 preamp tube.. the phase inverter doesnt need to be
an "Audio" tube per say.. as long as its not noisy and has a good gain structure that is reliable it could be anything but I still like the response the Ruby gives the P.I. in conjuction with the small bottle 5881s

btw.. the tubestore is a good place to buy tubes. Please remember that your amp is BIASED for the Large bottle 6L6GC winged C tubes you have and if you put the tungsols in without rebiasing they will blow up.
They only put out a max of 23 watts each.. This is why the blonde bassman really should be called a 40 watt amp not 50 because the spec tubes let it have a super tight low end and the upper mids break up...

Especially with a 50-100 guitar cable and RE301 space echo ...or this strange other little device called a Dynobrain

Im a bit confused the hg+ goes in V4 and the tung 12ax7 goes V3? I didnt have the $ to get all new pres for V1 and V2.
Since i dont use the bass side will the 83s be ok there with out being heard?
eh? ya.

slickfaster wrote:

Im a bit confused the hg+ goes in V4 and the tung 12ax7 goes V3? I didnt have the $ to get all new pres for V1 and V2.
Since i dont use the bass side will the 83s be ok there with out being heard?
eh? ya.

in your bassman you have 3preamp tubes , 1 phase inverter/driver tube and 2 power tubes..

V=1, and V=2 are for the bass channel.. leave those be. V=3 is your preamp tube for
the normal channel and you want the ruby in there. v=4 is actually p=1 the phase inverter tube/driver and that should be
the tungsol 12ax7.